People make the place
I have always been fascinated by certain geographical names. Loaded with history or evocations of a legendary past, they have captivated me over the years: Samarkand, Lhasa, Timbuktu... As for others, as soon as I saw a picture, I knew that I had to go.
For Georgians, there's more to piety than faith
Take any taxi in Tbilisi, Georgia. Inevitably, while you’re speeding Mad-Max-style toward what seems like certain death, you’ll spy one of the city’s many churches. That’s when the driver takes his hands off the wheel. He’ll cross himself. Believer or not, you might, too.
Communism plus capitalism equals profit
Looking for a Soviet military uniform? A Russian tea set? A tiger skin? A place to live? “Head to the Dry Bridge” is the invariable answer if you ask anyone in Tbilisi, Georgia.
Georgia's heart is up a mountain
Ten years ago, only the crazy went to the Georgian province of Svaneti.
Where hospitality is an endurance contest
At Alani, a riverside Ossetian restaurant in Tbilisi known for its home-brewed beer and arbitrary menu options, I share a pot of ostri – traditional beef stew – with my partner, Brian, and another female friend.
Need Milk? Ask a Neighbor
It was a few days after I moved to Tbilisi before I noticed that none of the grocery stores sold fresh milk. “Of course not!” says my landlady, Tamar, appalled at my ignorance. Everybody knows that if you need milk, you ask a neighbor.