The Pyramid of the Sun is the largest building in Teotihuacan, believed to have been constructed about 200 CE, and one of the largest in Mesoamerica.
Mexico – Been There

Mexico's Pyramid of the Sun leaves you gasping for air

Photo by Pixabay

Mexico – Been There Mexico's Pyramid of the Sun leaves you gasping for air

Foreign elements have encroached far upon ancient Mexico. Standing atop the Pyramid of the Sun at the ancient city of Teotihuacan, an hour’s bus ride outside Mexico City, I can see latticed steel telecommunications towers grouped in the distance like alien life forms against the green mountains to the south.

Brian Patrick Eha
Brian Patrick Eha Journalist

And yet it is impossible not to feel something extraordinary atop the Pyramid of the Sun. Panting and gasping, some visitors climb the steep pyramid and, upon reaching the top and regaining their wind, look around briefly and then descend gingerly, clutching the rubber-coated guide-cables for balance. They seem eager to let the horizon glide up the sky and return to its proper place as they go earthward, shielding from their view the all-too-vastness of the planet they momentarily surveyed like gods. They never take the time to understand a fundamental truth of high places.

The moment of summit is not the crucial moment. The crucial moment comes perhaps five or ten or 20 minutes later, when the surrounding landscape in all its astonishing detail is no longer wondrous, no longer breath-taking, when it simply is. In this moment, having seen the miracle of the world in a fresh light, I now simply exist, inhabiting the space of that vision, as its rich and strange perspective assumes an aspect of normalcy. I am here on this rocky height, resting my dusty boots on the throne and grave of an extinct religion, of a vanished people whose bloodlines are diffused in Mexico’s mestizo dream. It is natural to be here, writing in my notebook. Nothing could be simpler. The crucial moment occurs when the mundane and the miraculous are one.

Walking back along the path that leads to the Pyramid of the Sun, I pass a middle-aged British couple who are also returning. “How was it?” I ask. The woman turns and gives me a look. “Excellent!” she says. There are certain experiences of which anything one could possibly say would fall short, and in these cases “excellent” is as good as anything else.

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