Visiting Vienna’s most star-studded address
I'm in Vienna and I’ve just laid a rose on Beethoven’s grave. I feel slightly embarrassed, like a groupie.
Vienna's cafés are not all cake and whipped cream
Everybody knows Vienna’s café stereotypes: Habsburg-style dowagers nibbling at teaspoons piled high with whipped cream, old men in flat caps reading newspapers, classical sonatas on the piano. But they’ve never been to Café Phil.
The cool, the hip and the ugly
Shadowed by industrial buildings, defaced by graffiti, Vienna’s Donaukanal is hardly its most picturesque sight. But it’s definitely its coolest.
A man on a balcony playing Liszt – just another night in Vienna
In Paris, streets are named for famous writers. In Rome, they’re named for artists. But in Vienna, it’s composers who get all the glory. But they’re hardly relics of some vanished Viennese past: every night, an estimated 10,000 people attend a live classical music event in Vienna.
Crying at the Sound of Music
As a child I didn’t like “The Sound of Music”. It was sentimental, I thought the scenes were just Hollywood backdrops and I didn’t see the point of the singing. But a trip to Salzburg completely changed my perspective.
Secrets of a Salzburg coffee house
To understand Salzburg, you have to understand its coffee house culture and the uniquely Austrian quality of "schmah".
Meet Vienna’s bucolic pleasure-boat annex grunge-inflected nightclub
It’s midnight in Vienna. The operas are over; the amblers along the Ringstrasse have long since retired to bed. But on the Danube, the beat goes on.
Where breakfast can eat up a whole morning
Some cafés in Vienna try to dissuade “parking”: the process by which patrons order a single cup of coffee – or an individual biscuit – and linger for hours, taking up inordinate amounts of table space. But at Café Sperl, they encourage it.
Shaking off its enduring nostalgia
Hello Vienna, which has traded on its clichés for decades as visitors come in search of Baroque palaces and the Blue Danube. Now a new generation of entrepreneurs and immigrants is reinventing the city’s beloved icons. As the missing link between German efficiency and the southern European love of life, can the city shake off its enduring nostalgia?