Lights! Camera! Action!
At first sight, the vast square at the center of Marrakech is a complete tourist trap. A second look confirms that impression, with a crowd of snake-charmers, itinerant dentists, story-tellers, magicians and musicians in exotic costumes vying for your attention – and money.
A train journey shows where Morocco is going
Morocco's efficient train system is a great way to see another side of this friendly North African country.
The most beautiful square in Morocco
My favorite Essaouira restaurant, Taros, is on the most beautiful square in Morocco: Place Moulay Hassan.
"Dogs chase away the angels"
I awake to the clang of gas cylinders being carried past my room on donkeys, making early deliveries before the streets fill with people. They are the only beasts of burden capable of negotiating the narrow alleys of Fez, although they add their own smells of animal sweat and poop to the rich mix of the medina.
The beach of Essaouira is a catwalk
Everyone’s favorite place in Essaouira is the impressive, ten-kilometer-long sandy beach.
Daily life can seem unchanged for centuries
Hello Morocco, where the four “Imperial Cities” of Fez, Meknes, Marrakesh and Rabat have all been the country’s capital at least once in its history. They also all have in common an ancient medina, first built as a model Islamic community, where daily life can seem unchanged for centuries.
A picture can tear a family apart
Hello Imilchil, in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, where images on postcards and in magazines of their marriage ceremony have caused heartbreak for countless Berber women since an annual celebration became tourist fodder. A picture can tell a thousand words, but it can also tear a family apart.