The neighborhood of Žižkov is hip, lively and just a little bit rough around the edges, a perfect counterpoint to the fairytale cityscapes and grand architecture of Old Town and Lesser Town. Popular with the city's students, artists, and free spirits, Žižkov is an especially good spot for the type of noisy, unpretentious Prague pub that you've read so much about. There's nowhere better for a glass of beer or two (or three, or four) if you want to share that experience with a local crowd in a boisterous, smoke-filled, no-nonsense bar. Borivojova is a good starting point for the uninitiated – the street is lined with pubs and inexpensive restaurants – but, thus emboldened, be sure to explore the rest of the neighborhood so as to find your favorite.
But there's more to the neighborhood than its beer. There's independent theater, spacious parks, the bustling market on Jiriho z Podebrad Square, cafes at the artsy end of the scale, and decent if not spectacular restaurants. Then there's the Zizkov Television Tower, a communist-era, 216m-high tower that's something of an eyesore but really rather cool at the same time. The addition of a bar, restaurant and exclusive hotel at the top have helped, as have David Cerny's crawling baby sculptures. Don't ask, just go and see!